In addition to reading Houston’s article (we know you will!) we want to provide you some ’quick and dirty’ information about The Home Star Energy Retrofit Act of 2010 and how it can save you money at home.

I suppose the first thing you would like to know is what this bill does.  Well, the  proper name is H.R. 5019 or The Home Star Energy Retrofit Act of 2010- which was just passed in May by the House (we are waiting for the Senate).  To quote the The Committee on Energy and Commerce:

“legislation that will incentivize home energy retrofits and increase employment in the construction and related sectors.

Home Star is a short-term program to create jobs, save energy, and lower families’ energy bills. Home Star will restart the assembly lines at factories that manufacture energy efficiency technologies and will put construction workers back on the job installing these improvements in the homes of millions of American families.”

The bill would fund rebates of as much as 50%- up to $3,000,-for energy-saving efforts such as insulation improvements and the replacement of windows, doors, heating and cooling systems.  A great number of these  installations will have to be completed by qualified contractors, but there are a few things which our DIY customers will be able to qualify.

This bill encourages energy retrofits by giving rebates to homeowners who install energy-saving products like windows, doors, insulation, or heating/cooling systems. What it means for our customers is that you can finally do some of those projects and manage to get a significant portion covered through this program.

There are two levels to this program. The Silver Star and the Gold Star program.

The Silver Star will provide up-front rebates up to $3000.00 for specific kinds of upgrades like duct sealing, air sealing, water heaters, windows and doors.

The Gold Star program is a much bigger incentive providing up to $8000.00 for a homeowner when you reduce your energy use. You will receive a $3000.00 rebate when you reduce your energy use by 20%, and an additional $1000.00 for every 5% thereafter (up to the $8000.00 allowable).

Houston Neil has made a wonderful table that shows the retofit  requirements (please note that in addition to the requirements listed in his article, the retrofits also have to comply with the BPI and the Secretary of Energy can have additional requirements)  and rebate amount, but we’ve done a quick and dirty version for our customers that addresses some of our most common energy efficiency questions and solutions.

Remember, there are still other incentives for other “green” or “energy efficient” upgrades. Don’t forget about those. If you’ve forgotten, check this article!

So, where do you start? Get an energy audit! This will show you where you are seeping hot air into your home which will tell you where the work needs to happen. You can call us any time and we will happily help you understand the legislation and how you can take advantage of it.

Look for more articles from me (and Houston) as we get more information.  This is an amazing opportunity for our customers, and we want to help you take advantage of it!

So I headed over to our pals at the EPA and found some answers. So, the EPA defines HHW like this:

“Leftover household products that contain corrosive, toxic, ignitable, or reactive ingredients are considered to be “household hazardous waste” or “HHW.” Products, such as paints, cleaners, oils, batteries, and pesticides, that contain potentially hazardous ingredients require special care when you dispose of them.

Improper disposal of household hazardous wastes can include pouring them down the drain, on the ground, into storm sewers, or in some cases putting them out with the trash. The dangers of such disposal methods might not be immediately obvious, but improper disposal of these wastes can pollute the environment and pose a threat to human health. Many communities in the United States offer a variety of options for conveniently and safely managing HHW.”

Here are some fun facts about HHW:

• Americans generate 1.6 million tons of HHW per year.
• The average home can accumulate as much as 100 pounds of HHW in the basement and garage and in storage closets.
• During the 1980s, many communities started special collection days or permanent collection sites for handling HHW. In 1997, there were more than 3,000 HHW permanent programs and collection events throughout the United States.

So, what do we do?

I went to our pals at the City of Phoenix and there is a program for this! You can view it on their web page here.  They even have a document that shows you how to dispose of HHW’s and their more environmentally friendly options. Very cool stuff.  You can view their document here.

So, throughout the year there are HHW collection events in Phoenix, and they are FREE! How cool is that? Here is the schedule.

Some more notes about the collections….

What happens to the items collected?

• Recycling companies will recycle the used motor oil, batteries and antifreeze.
• Useable paints will be mixed and reused or recycled.
• Unusable materials will be disposed of properly.
• Collected appliance materials are hauled directly to a recycling facility, or to another facility for proper removal and recycling of regulated materials, such as refrigerants. After removal of refrigerants, the appliances are recycled.

Between HHW collection events…

• Motor oil and car batteries can be taken to some local auto parts stores for free. Call the store first – materials accepted and hours of operation are subject to change.
• Allow small amounts of latex paint (1/3 of a gallon or less) to dry and harden. Place open can of dried paint in refuse container. Place lid in container separately.
• Use or burn up liquid propane in small (1 lb) canisters. Place empty canister in refuse container. Bring BBQ cylinders/tanks to HHW collection events.
• City disposal facilities accept car batteries, up to five (5) gallons of motor oil per residence, appliances that use refrigerants, and up to five (5) tires ( no oversized tires) per residence per year. Bring proof of City of Phoenix residency (your current Phoenix water bill).

How cool is this program? Questions? Ask us!

WaterSense is a partnership program sponsored by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) with the goal of protecting the future of the US’s water supply. By promoting and enhancing the market for water efficient products and services, WaterSense makes every drop count by leveraging relationships with key utility, manufacturer and retail partners across the U.S.

WaterSense is not a regulatory program, but rather a voluntary program. EPA develops specifications for water efficient products through apublic process. If a manufacturer makes a product that meets those specifications, the product is eligible for third-party testing to ensure the stated efficiency and performance criteria have been met. If the product passes the test, the manufacturer is rewarded with the right to put the WaterSense label on that product.^[2]

WaterSense makes it easy for consumers to differentiate among products that use less water and reinforces that saving water is easy and does not require a major lifestyle change.

Toilets (HETs), flushing urinals, bathroom sink faucets (and accessories), and irrigation professionals who have undergone training by WaterSense-labeled certification programs are all products/services that are readily available to consumers.

Want to find WaterSense approved appliances? The EPA has a very cool database that you can search by category, brands, or models.  Take a look at their database if you are looking to replace a plumbing fixture.

Remember, these are guidelines. If you aren’t sure how to do something, call us and we will send a plumber. Trying to fix something you aren’t comfortable with can frequently make things more costly in the end.

Checking for Leaks

To check for leaks in your home, first you need to determine whether you’re wasting water, then identify the source of the leak.

• Take a look at your water usage during a colder month, such as January or February. If a family of four exceeds 12,000 gallons per month, there are serious leaks.
• Check your water meter before and after a two-hour period when no water is being used. If the meter changes at all, you probably have a leak.
• Examine faucet gaskets and pipe fittings for any water on the outside of the pipe to check for surface leaks.
• The Regional Water Providers Consortium has a video on detecting household leaks that you may find helpful.

Fix a Leak: Outdoors

If you have an in-ground irrigation system, check it each spring before use to make sure it wasn’t damaged by frost or freezing. Or hire a WaterSense irrigation partner to inspect it for you. These professionals have passed a certification program focused on water efficiency. They will not only help you detect and correct leaks in the system, but also maximize its efficiency.

Finally, check your garden hose for leaks at its connection to the spigot. If it leaks while you run your hose, replace the nylon or rubber hose washer and ensure a tight connection to the spigot using pipe tape and a wrench.

• BobVila.com shows how to make additional repairs to an outdoor faucet.

Leaks Still Flowing Overboard?

Have you done all that you can to try to eliminate leaks from your home but still can’t nip that drip in the bud?

If you’ve already determined you have leaks and you find these step-by-step solutions aren’t enough to stop them, it might be time to replace your leaking fixtures. If you consult with a plumbing professional, and look for the WaterSense label if you are considering a new toilet or faucet, you could increase your home’s water efficiency.

Remember, these are guidelines. If you aren’t sure how to do something, call us and we will send a plumber. Trying to fix something you aren’t comfortable with can frequently make things more costly in the end.

Checking for Leaks

To check for leaks in your home, first you need to determine whether you’re wasting water, then identify the source of the leak.

• Take a look at your water usage during a colder month, such as January or February. If a family of four exceeds 12,000 gallons per month, there are serious leaks.
• Check your water meter before and after a two-hour period when no water is being used. If the meter changes at all, you probably have a leak.
• Examine faucet gaskets and pipe fittings for any water on the outside of the pipe to check for surface leaks.
• The Regional Water Providers Consortium has a video on detecting household leaks that you may find helpful.

Fix a Leak: Faucets

Old and worn faucet washers and gaskets frequently cause leaks in faucets. Many tutorials are available online for how to fix a wide variety of faucets. Here are a couple of examples:

• The Do-It-Yourself Network has a handy reference on faucet repairs. 
• YouTube has numerous video tutorials on how to fix a dripping faucet. 

Tip: Don’t forget to turn off the water line before you start!

Leaks Still Flowing Overboard?

Have you done all that you can to try to eliminate leaks from your home but still can’t nip that drip in the bud?

If you’ve already determined you have leaks and you find these step-by-step solutions aren’t enough to stop them, it might be time to replace your leaking fixtures. If you consult with a plumbing professional, and look for the WaterSense label if you are considering a new toilet or faucet, you could increase your home’s water efficiency.

See a complete list of WaterSense labeled products.

Remember, these are guidelines. If you aren’t sure how to do something, call us and we will send a plumber. Trying to fix something you aren’t comfortable with can frequently make things more costly in the end.

Checking for Leaks

To check for leaks in your home, first you need to determine whether you’re wasting water, then identify the source of the leak.

• Take a look at your water usage during a colder month, such as January or February. If a family of four exceeds 12,000 gallons per month, there are serious leaks.
• Check your water meter before and after a two-hour period when no water is being used. If the meter changes at all, you probably have a leak.
• Identify toilet leaks by placing a drop of food coloring in the toilet tank. If
• Examine faucet gaskets and pipe fittings for any water on the outside of the pipe to check for surface leaks.
• The Regional Water Providers Consortium has a video on detecting household leaks that you may find helpful.

Fix a Leak: Showerheads

Some leaky showerheads can be fixed by making sure there is a tight connection between the showerhead and the pipe stem and by using pipe tape to secure it. Pipe tape, also called Teflon tape, is available at most hardware stores, is easy to apply, and can help tame unruly leaks. For more complicated valve leaks in showers that drip when not in use, contact an experienced handyperson or licensed plumber.

Tip: It’s also a good idea to check and, if needed, replace the washer or “o” ring inside the showerhead while making this repair.

Leaks Still Flowing Overboard?

Have you done all that you can to try to eliminate leaks from your home but still can’t nip that drip in the bud?

If you’ve already determined you have leaks and you find these step-by-step solutions aren’t enough to stop them, it might be time to replace your leaking fixtures. If you consult with a plumbing professional, and look for the WaterSense label if you are considering a new toilet or faucet, you could increase your home’s water efficiency.

Remember, these are guidelines. If you aren’t sure how to do something, call us and we will send a plumber. Trying to fix something you aren’t comfortable with can frequently make things more costly in the end.

Checking for Leaks

To check for leaks in your home, first you need to determine whether you’re wasting water, then identify the source of the leak.

• Take a look at your water usage during a colder month, such as January or February. If a family of four exceeds 12,000 gallons per month, there are serious leaks.
• Check your water meter before and after a two-hour period when no water is being used. If the meter changes at all, you probably have a leak.
• Identify toilet leaks by placing a drop of food coloring in the toilet tank. If any color shows up in the bowl after 15 minutes, you have a leak. (Be sure to flush immediately after the experiment to avoid staining the tank.)
• Examine faucet gaskets and pipe fittings for any water on the outside of the pipe to check for surface leaks.
• The Regional Water Providers Consortium has a video on detecting household leaks that you may find helpful.

Fix a Leak: Toilets

A common reason why toilets will leak is an old or worn out toilet flapper (sometimes called a “valve seal”). Flappers are inexpensive rubber parts that can build up minerals or decay over time. Replacing them can be a quick and easy fix for your water woes. To fix this leak, consult your local hardware store, home improvement retailer, or licensed plumber. Here are some online resources from WaterSense partners :

• Spartanburg Water has a useful video tutorial on detecting leaky toilets. 
• The Regional Water Providers Consortium has a step-by-step video on how to fix a leaky toilet.

Tip: Bring the old flapper to the hardware store for comparison to make sure you buy a new flapper that fits your toilet model. You can also check the owner’s manual, if you have it, or the manufacturer’s Web site for the appropriate replacement part number for the flapper.

Leaks Still Flowing Overboard?

Have you done all that you can to try to eliminate leaks from your home but stillcan’t nip that drip in the bud?

If you’ve already determined you have leaks and you find these step-by-step solutions aren’t enough to stop them, it might be time to replace your leaking fixtures. If you consult with a plumbing professional, and look for the WaterSense label if you are considering a new toilet or faucet, you could increase your home’s water efficiency.

March 15 to 21, 2010, marks the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s WaterSense program’s first “Fix a Leak Week,” a time to remind Americans to check their household fixtures and irrigation systems for leaks.

We all know there is a pretty serious demand on our water supply. According to the EPA “Between 1950 and 2000, the U.S. population nearly doubled while the public demand for water more than tripled! Americans now use an average of 100 gallons of water each day—enough to fill 1,600 drinking glasses!”
Some information on Leaks from our pals at the EPA:

The Facts on Leaks:

• Leaks can account for, on average, 10,000 gallons of water wasted in the home every year, which is enough to fill a backyard swimming pool.
• The amount of water leaked from U.S. homes could exceed more than 1 trillion gallons per year. That’s equivalent to the annual water use of Los Angeles, Chicago, and Miami combined.
• Ten percent of homes have leaks that waste 90 gallons or more per day.
• Common types of leaks found in the home include leaking toilet flappers, dripping faucets, and other leaking valves. All are easily correctable.
• Fixing easily corrected household water leaks can save homeowners more than 10 percent on their water bills.
• Keep your home leak-free by repairing dripping faucets, toilet valves, and showerheads. In most cases, fixture replacement parts don’t require a major investment and can be installed by do-it-yourselfers.
• The vast majority of leaks can be eliminated after retrofitting a household with new WaterSense labeled fixtures and other high-efficiency appliances.

Leak Detection:

• A good method to check for leaks is to examine your winter water usage. It’s likely that a family of four has a serious leak problem if its winter water use exceeds 12,000 gallons per month.
• Check your water meter before and after a two-hour period when no water is being used. If the meter does not read exactly the same, you probably have a leak.
• One way to find out if you have a toilet leak is to place a drop of food coloring in the toilet tank. If the color shows up in the bowl within 15 minutes without flushing, you have a leak. Make sure to flush immediately after this experiment to avoid staining the tank.

Faucets and Showerheads:

• A leaky faucet that drips at the rate of one drip per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons per year. A home with WaterSense labeled toilets could use that water to flush for six months!
• Leaky faucets can be reduced by checking faucet washers and gaskets for wear and replacing them if necessary. If you are replacing a faucet, look for the WaterSense label.
• A showerhead leaking at 10 drips per minute wastes more than 500 gallons per year. That’s enough water to wash 60 loads of dishes in your dishwasher.
• Most leaky showerheads can be fixed by ensuring a tight connection using pipe tape and a wrench.

Toilets:

• If your toilet is running constantly, you could be wasting 200 gallons of water or more every day.
• If your toilet is leaking, the cause is most often an old, faulty toilet flapper. Over time, this inexpensive rubber part decays, or minerals build up on it. It’s usually best to replace the whole rubber flapper—a relatively easy, inexpensive do-it-yourself project that pays for itself in no time.
• If you do need to replace the entire toilet, look for a WaterSense labeled model. If a family of four replaces its older, inefficient toilets with new WaterSense labeled ones, it could save more than 16,000 gallons per year. Retrofitting the house could save the family approximately $2,000 in water and wastewater bills over the lifetime of the toilets.

Outdoors:

• An irrigation system should be checked each spring before use to make sure it was not damaged by frost or freezing.
• An irrigation system with pressure set at 60 pounds per square inch that has a leak 1/32nd of an inch in diameter (about the thickness of a dime) can waste about 6,300 gallons of water per month.
• To ensure that your in-ground irrigation system is not leaking water, consult with a WaterSense irrigation partner who has passed a certification program focused on water efficiency.
• Check your garden hose for leaks at its connection to the spigot. If it leaks while you run your hose, replace the nylon or rubber hose washer and ensure a tight connection to the spigot using pipe tape and a wrench.

Remember, plumbing can be tricky. If you aren’t sure you can fix something, don’t make a more expensive problem by experimenting. Call or email us and we will help!

Take advantage of  ”Fix a Leak Week!”

You are replacing a storage water heater and not sure what size tank you need?

Some water heaters use energy more efficiently. The more energy efficient your water heater may be, the less money you’ll spend on your energy bill to get the same amount of hot water.

Before you decide think about your needs. Do you frequently run out of hot water? Do temperature fluctuations make showers an adventure? You can take this opportunity to both reduce your energy bill AND meet your needs more appropriately.   If you are going to do the change yourself, please remember that water heaters are DANGEROUS, so keep safety in mind. Water heaters can still blow up, cause fires, scald you, and produce carbon monoxide.

Properly sizing a water heater first involves estimating the appropriate First Hour Rating (FHR) based on estimated hot-water use. FHR describes the amount of hot water (in gallons) a water heater can provide in the first hour, starting with a full tank of hot water. The FHR depends on the tank capacity, the source of heat (burner or element) and the size of the burner or element.

The FHR rating appears on every EnergyGuide label in the top left corner (except on heat-pump water heaters). To get the proper size, look for a water heater with an FHR that matches the home’s anticipated peak water demand within one or two gallons. There are several worksheets available to help you figure peak demand; The worksheet provided below is from our friends at the Department of Energy:

EXAMPLE

Adapted from information from the Air Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute
*The above worksheet assumes no water conservation measures.

Besides the FHR rating, consider these other factors when choosing a tank-style water heater:

• The Energy Factor (EF), also shown on the EnergyGuide label, shows the unit’s energy efficiency based on how much hot water is consumed in an average day. The higher the EF, the more efficient the unit.
• Look for models with a thermal resistance (R-value) of R-12 to R-25.
• Gas and oil water heaters also have venting-related losses. Look for units that are either fan-assisted or have atmospheric sealed-combustion chambers to reduce these losses.

FACT#1: If every American home replaced just one light bulb with an Energy Star qualified bulb, we would save enough energy to light more than 3 million homes for a year, more than $600 million in annual energy costs, and prevent greenhouse gases equivalent to the emissions of more than 800,000 cars.

FACT#2: You save about $30 or more in electricity costs over each bulb’s lifetime. The average U.S. household has 45 light bulbs; replacing that number of 75-watt incandescent bulbs with Compact Florescent Lights (CFLs) would save $180 per year.

FACT#3: CFL bulbs produce about 75 percent less heat, so they’re safer to operate and can cut energy costs associated with home cooling.

FACT #4: The United States Congress has passed a bill that provides for the phasing out of all incandescent light bulbs by 2014 (100-watt bulbs can not be used after 2012).  

So, like it or not you need to get with greener program soon or you will literally be left in the dark.

Complaints about the change include the light being too bright. So I suggest taking part of your newly found $180.00 and buy some new lampshades!  As an alternative to redecorating you have an opportunity to be the ‘Greenest” house on the block.

Opportunity to think forward: Light-emitting diodes (LEDs) are tiny, yet powerful sources of light that are even more energy-efficient than CFLs. Manufacturing LEDs that produce the light equivalent to a 60-watt bulb is expensive, however. One bulb can cost as much as $75, but they last 10 times LONGER than a CFL bulb, or 60,000 hours with a total cost of energy of just $12 to power that bulb for the full 60,000 hours.

 One thing that is not talked about much is that CFLs emit more ultraviolet (UV) light than an incandescent bulb. Light in a CFL starts out as UV from excited gases, and is made visible by phosphors coating the inside of the tube or bulb. Incandescent light is mostly infrared emitted by heating the filament to super high temperatures (leading some to call them “heat bulbs” instead of “light bulbs”). Most of the UV from a CFL is filtered out in the conversion, but there is still some.

The EPA says, however, that there is no health risk to people or animals and that eight hours of exposure to CFL UV is about the same as one minute in full sunlight. But, LED lights may be more practical in rooms where you display photography, art, antique or fine furniture as some of these will be photographs, artwork, some fabrics, and some susceptible to degradation from any increased levels of UV over a long enough period of time.

There are two warnings we want to issue about CFL’s. Both about disposal.

All fluorescent bulbs contain mercury, a known neurotoxin. Mercury is the ingredient that makes the inner phosphor coating of any fluorescent bulb produce light.

 Thanks to very cool new technology and commitments that have been kept by manufacturers, the average mercury content in CFLs has dropped at least 20 percent in the past two (2) years. Some manufacturers have even made further reductions, dropping mercury content to 1.4 – 2.5 milligrams per light bulb.

Warning #1: What to do if you break a CFL

CFLs are made of glass and can break. Be careful when removing the bulb from its packaging, installing it, or replacing it. Always screw and unscrew the light bulb by its base (not the glass), and never forcefully twist the bulb into a light socket. If a CFL breaks in your home, follow the clean-up recommendations HERE to read the federal guidelines about how to clean it up properly.

Warning #2: Recycling is mandatory

Fluorescent bulbs that are not recycled go into the trash that then gets dumped into a local landfill. As rain comes down on the landfill, mercury from thousands of CFLs seeps into the local water supply, which then exposes us to mercury.

I don’t have to tell you how bad mercury is right? I didn’t think so. I will just say recycle your light bulbs! If you do not participate in a recycling program at home, all the big box home improvement stores like Lowes and Home Depot do have recycling centers just for light bulbs. If you own a home, you absolutely go to these places. Get a box, put the spent bulbs in it, and take them when you go.  If you really can’t do that, there are other options, you can go HERE to see retail locations that participate in the recycling program.

For more information on all sources of mercury, visit HERE.

 Defective Bulbs:

If your ENERGY STAR qualified CFL product burns out before it should, look at the CFL base to find the manufacturer’s name. Visit the manufacturer’s web site to find the customer service contact information to inquire about a refund or replacement. Manufacturers producing ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs are required to offer at least a two-year limited warranty (covering manufacturer defects) for CFLs used at home. In the future, save your receipts to document the date of purchase.

 To read more about CFL’s visit the Department of Energy

Disagree? Have something to say? We would love to hear from you.