In a previous post we gave you a first hour system to decide how large a storage water heater you needed. Recently however APS published a point system we thought we should share.  Perhaps this will help you decide what size tank you might need. As always, if you aren’t sure…just call us!

Here is a quick test give one point for each: How many people in the home? How many bath tubes/showers? Add one (1) for each automatic dishwasher washing machines. Total this number and check the chart below.

Gas Water Heaters:

If the total is:	Gallon Capacity Needed
4 or less	30 Gallon
5 – 7	40 Gallon
8 – 9	50 Gallon
10 or 12	75 Gallon

Make sure the BTUs of the new water heaters is equal to or greater than the one being replaced.

Electric Water Heaters:

If the total is:	Gallon Capacity Needed
4 or less	40 Gallon
5 – 6	50 Gallon
7 – 8	66 Gallon
9 or 10	80 Gallon
10 or 12	120 Gallon

Never replace an electric water heater with a unit smaller in capacity than the one being removed.

There are some symptoms that leave no questions…If the area around your hot water heater is covered in water or if you had to take an ice cold shower despite having a full tank, the answer is obvious. That is usually a process of running around to fix the problem immediately to clean up the mess.  But tanks do deteriorate with age. You will need to inspect the water heater to determine if it is a good candidate to keep and maintain. However, there are several things you can investigate to see if  your hot water heater is on the way out.

1. The age of your hot water heater. How long have you had it? Did you buy it or ‘inherit’ it when you purchased your house? A gas hot water heater is expected to last 8-12 years, an electric hot water heater does a little better at 10-15, and tankless systems can last 25 or more.  

If you don’t know how old your water heater may be, here’s a guide:

A tank’s age is usually encoded in its serial number. If it begins A-83 or 0183, the tank was built in January 1983. B-83 and 0283 mean February 1983, and so on. If it begins 8301, the tank was built in the first week of 1983; 8352 would mean the last week of that year. Knowing the tank’s age is a start.

2. Discolored hot water. Do you get tinted water when you turn on the hot tap? Not good.

3. Your hot water is not as hot as you remember, or you are running out of hot water more rapidly than you should.  

4. Water damage or rust on the tank or plumbing fixtures attached to the hot water heater? Water damage, rust or condensation can indicate a leak.

 Inspect all tank fittings to get more information. Do you see any signs of rusting or leakage? Look into the combustion chamber and the flue of fuel-burning units. (A flashlight and an inspection mirror are a big help.) While slight rust or water marking from condensation are not a problem, heavy rust and water streaks are danger signals. A pile of rusty scale on top of the burner suggests that tainted air has damaged the flue.

5. Has your family expanded or expect to expand?

Knowing if your hot water heater is big enough is purely a function of how much hot water you need.  The key is how much water do you need at one time.  

The EnergyGuide Label lists the first hour rating in the top left corner as “Capacity (first hour rating).” Product literature from a manufacturer may also provide the first hour rating. Look for water heater models with a first hour rating that matches within 1 or 2 gallons of your peak hour demand—the daily peak 1-hour hot water demand for your home.

To get a more specific idea of your needs, estimate your peak hour demand(morning, noon, evening) you use the most hot water in your home – Keep in mind the number of people living in your home – and find a heater that falls within a couple of gallons of this number. Here are estimates for the number of gallons used for each household task:

• Shower – 20
• Bath – 20
• Shaving – 2
• Shampoo – 4
• Hand and face wash – 4
• Dish wash by hand – 4
• Dishwasher – 14
• Food preparation – 5
• Washing machine – 32

[source: U.S. Department of Energy]

If you do this math and realize your how water heater does not fall within a 1 (one) or 2 (two) gallons of this number you should get a bigger tank or an alternative system.

6. Have you installed any new hot water appliances? A new dishwasher or washing machine can be a signal for a new water heating solution.  

7. When was the last time you performed any maintenance on your water heater? If the answer is never…you may be living on borrowed time.

8.  Have you had an unexpected rise in your energy bill? A hot water heater not working efficiently could be the culprit. According to the Department of Energy Water heating can account for 14%–25% of the energy consumed in your home.

9. The sacrificial anode rod. Another indicator for both gas and electric heaters is the sacrificial anode rod. (This rod “sacrifices” itself to protect the tank.) Although it can be difficult to remove, the effort is worthwhile, because the anode provides the best clue to conditions inside the tank. The sacrificial metal (magnesium or aluminum) is formed around a steel core wire. Normally, the anode slowly corrodes away to protect the heater from rust. When enough metal has corroded away to expose 6 inches of the core wire, it’s time to replace the anode. So if you pull out an anode and find little or no sacrificial metal left, some damage will have occurred in the tank.

Perhaps you found little or no evidence of tank deterioration. Then, assuming the tank has insulation and is correctly sized, the most cost-effective thing to do is probably to keep it going. But, you may be thinking, what about energy use? The main difference between most old and new heaters in terms of energy performance is the insulation level. Atmospheric combustion and immersion heating elements haven’t changed a lot. So insulating blankets, heat traps, and pipe insulation can help keep heat where it should be and help old heaters perform more like new heaters.

If some of the above problems exist and it is time for a new water heater, read our article on Selecting a Water Heating System for more information.

 Still not sure if your problem will be solved with a new water heater? Just call us, we can evaluate your water heating system and help you decide on a solution.

*The above post is the opinion of the author. Please consult a licensed professional if you have not performed the above tasks in the past, or if you are not comfortable with the process. A water heating system can be dangerous, and extreme care should be taken when operating or maintaining one.

Most people look at me with shock when I tell them they need to maintain their water heater. Unless you have a tankless system, a storage water heating systems need maintenance just like most every other part of your home.  Hot water heating is typically the third largest energy expense (Department of Energy) in a home, after space heating and cooling.  In addition, a water heater is a relatively expensive appliance, and it operates under very severe conditions (high temperatures, and cycling on and off).  Proper maintenance can significantly improve the energy efficiency, service life, and safety of this appliance. 

Some things you should be doing to increase the life of your water heater:

• Check the insulation
• Check the pressure relief valve every six (6) months, every three (3) months if you have hard water.
•  Flush the tank every six (6) months more often (3-4 months) if you have hard water
• Evaluate the sacrificial anode rod every four (4) years. If you are using softening agents, you need to evaluate the sacrificial anode rod every 2 years as softening agents (rock salt or phosphates ) can corrode up to three times faster  than calcium carbonate (the source of hard water).

Before you do anything to your water heater, make sure you turn off the water. That bears repeating, before maintaining or inspecting your water heater…TURN OFF YOUR WATER.

Check the water heater insulation:

Not every tank-style water heater needs more insulation. In fact, some newer models specifically direct owners not to add more insulation. Don’t make this process more difficult than it needs to be, don’t tear your house apart to find the manual. To find out whether your heater could benefit from more insulation, just touch it. A tank that’s warm to the touch needs more insulation.

With the expensive energy costs we are all facing, this easy retrofit can produce significant savings in both money and energy use. You can buy a water heater blanket for less than $25 at a hardware store. It takes just a few minutes to install with a knife and a roll of duct tape.
 

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, “adding insulation to a water heater can reduce standby heat losses by 25-45%, unless your water heater’s storage tank is already insulated to at least R-24. The reduced heat loss will save you around 4%–9% in water heating costs.”

If you decide to install a blanket, choose one with an insulating value of at least R-8. (The higher the R-value, the more energy-efficient the insulation.) Check with your local utility to see if there are any special deals or rebates available for insulating your water heater.

Check the pressure relief valve every six (6) monthsTo test the valve the lever on the valve is lifted, which should result in (hot) water flushing through the valve and its discharge tube into a bucket placed below the discharge tube for that purpose or into a floor drain.After lifting the easing lever or relief valve opening lever, lower it gently back to its closed position. Indelicate handling of the relief valve test lever, such as allowing it to “snap” closed, can damage the temperature and pressure relief valve – a dangerous condition that could lead to a water heater explosion.If water does not flow freely when the temperature/pressure relief valve is opened, the valve should be replaced by a licensed plumber, making sure that an approved, properly-rated TP valve is installed.

If your temperature/pressure relief valve has not been tested or replaced sooner than five years, the TP valve should simply be replaced. More frequent replacement of the safety valve may be needed in areas where hard water is found.  

Flush the tank every six (6) months more often (3-4 months) if you have hard water.

CAUTION: When flushing your water heater there is danger of being scalded.  Be careful and keep children and pets away during the procedure.

What is sediment, and why is it a problem? The sediment is sand or other grit from a well, or any other material that has gotten into the municipal water mains. Sediment can also come into your home after the water company flushes out their lines.

Over time, your heater can accumulate this sediment consisting of sand, gravel, grit, and various mineral deposits. This buildup can reduce the amount your water heater holds, create a variety of interesting noises, and reduce the efficiency of your unit. The buildup of sediment at the bottom can harden and sometimes clog the drain valve.

Cleaning this sediment from out of your water heater is not particularly difficult, here is how to do it.

If your water heater is gas, set the gas valve to “Pilot” to prevent the burners from coming on while you are flushing it. If your heater is electric be sure to turn off the circuit breakers. With an electric water heater, if the water level drops below the heating elements and the thermostat turns the elements on, the heating elements will probably burn out quite rapidly.

Connect a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank.  Make sure the outlet of the hose is in a safe area away from pets and children. It can be very hot and can scald quickly

Close the shut off valve on the cold inlet to the water heater.

Carefully open the temperature/pressure relief valve at the top of the tank by lifting the lever.  Leave the valve open.

Open the drain valve at the bottom of the heater allowing the water to flow out through the garden hose. If the sediment is clogging the drain valve then try closing the temperature/pressure relief valve and turn the cold inlet valve back on to “power flush” the sediment out.

In some cases the sediment hardens into large chunks that can block the drain valve. If so, then wait until everything cools down, remove the garden hose from the drain valve, remove the valve if necessary, and use a long screw driver to break up the clog. This is a very messy procedure.

When the garden hose runs clear you are finished.

Close the drain valve at the bottom of the tank and remove the garden hose.

Close the pressure relief valve at the top of the tank if it is still open, and turn the cold inlet valve back on.

Open a hot water faucet in your house, and let it run until no air bubbles come out.

Turn the heater back on, and with gas units re-light the pilot light if necessary.

Evaluating and Replacing the Sacrificial Anode Rods

PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING CAREFULLY. WATER HEATING SYSTEMS ARE DANGEOUS.   IF YOU DO NOT FEEL COMFORTABLE DOING THIS YOURSELF, CALL A PROFESSIONAL.

Anode rods are usually attached to the top of the water heater with a ¾ inch hex head screw. Most rods are approximately 3 feet 8 inches in long. The core of an anode rod is a steel wire framed by one of three different metals: aluminum, magnesium or zinc. All anodes are made from one of these three metals, and each type of rod has a particular use.

• Aluminum. Aluminum rods are the best for hard water conditions, and most areas of the U.S. with hard water will have water heaters with aluminum rods. An easy way to check if your area has hard water is to check your anode rod. If the steel wire of the anode rod core is exposed, the rod is completely gone, or there is extensive passivation this is indicative of hard water conditions. If you’re unsure whether your tank uses an aluminum anode rod, simply remove the rod and try to bend it with your hands. If it bends easily, it is probably made of aluminum.
• Magnesium. Magnesium rods are the most common type of anode rod. Magnesium works best in areas where the water is not hard. When replacing a magnesium rod, make sure the water heater lining is not corroded. If you install a new magnesium anode in a tank that is corroded, the subsequent electro-chemical reaction can cause a build up of hydrogen gas in that tank, which often leads to water leaks.
• Zinc. Zinc rods are simply aluminum rods with a portion of zinc mixed with the aluminum in a ratio of 1 to 10. The only reason for using an anode rod with zinc in it is to reduce any sulfur smell in the water. A new water heater almost never comes with a zinc rod already installed.

Now that you know what type of anode rod you have, you can inspect and evaluate your anode rod and install a new one, if necessary, by following these steps.

Anode Evaluation

Often times the rod will be covered in calcium carbonate. Calcium carbonate is not corroded metal from the anode rod. Most times, you can remove it easily with a towel. Once you’ve removed any calcium carbonate build-up, inspect the rod. If there is more sacrificial metal on the outside of the rod than exposed portions of the steel wire center, the rod is still good.

Anode rods corrode predictably, usually starting at the top or bottom of the rod. If the steel wire is exposed more than six inches from the top or bottom, the rod should be replaced. If the steel core wire in the middle of the rod is exposed, it should be replaced. Also, if the present diameter of the entire rod is less than half the original ¾ inch diameter (this is approximately ⅜ inch), it should be replaced.

Sometimes the calcium carbonate build-up on the rod can become hard. When this happens, it prevents the anode rod from doing its job and the lining of the tank will begin to corrode. This calcium carbonate build-up is called passivation. Unfortunately, if the anode rod is passivated, you will not be able to tell just by looking at it. Bend the rod by hand and check for flaking at the bend. If flaking does occur, replace the rod. Also, if the rod has split along its length or it is heavily pitted, you should replace it.

After the outer metal of the rod has worn away, the steel wire begins to corrode. After that the hex head (or the hot water outlet nipple in a combination anode) will begin to corrode. Then the tank lining will corrode. If you find the anode rod in any of the above conditions, the water heater may already be damaged, in which case it will need to be replaced.

Combination Anode System

All water heaters have at least one anode rod usually attached to the top of the water heater with a ¾ inch hex head screw. Some residential water heaters may have two rods attached to the top with hex head screws. However, most water heaters that use two anode rods will have the second rod attached to the hot water outlet pipe nipple. This is known as a combination anode water heater. If your water heater has a longer warranty, it is most likely because it has a second combination anode rod.

If you are not sure you have a combination anode, you can check and find out. First, shut off your water! This should be the first thing you do whenever performing any kind of check or maintenance on your water heater. Next, use a pipe wrench to disconnect the hot water outlet at the top of the heater. Use a stiff wire to carefully explore the hole where the hot water nipple was. If the wire stops approximately 3 to 6 inches directly down, you have located the combination anode. If the wire meets no resistance, there is not an anode connected to the hot water outlet. You can remove the combination anode with a pipe wrench.

If you do not have a combination anode but wish to install one, then simply remove the hot water pipe nipple and replace it with a combination anode rod. Make sure that the nipple on the combination anode rod is thicker than the insulation on top of the water heater. This is usually between 2 and 6 inches.

Anode Installation

To remove the old rod, pull it as far out as possible, bend it, then pull it the rest of the way out. Bend the new rod in the middle, insert it half way, straighten it against the opening, and install it the rest of the way. Screw in the anode rod at this time. If you are unable to screw it into place because it is too bent, pull it partially out and use the opening to straighten it further.

If the location of the water heater does not allow easy access to replace the rod, and you are unable to follow the instructions above, either call a professional or consider using a link-anode. A link-anode is an anode rod made up of many small links hooked together and looks similar to links of sausage. You can also try a zinc anode rod because the metal is more malleable than magnesium.

If none of these options work, you will have to drain the water heater, and then tip it over far enough to allow easy access for the anode.

Impressed-Current Rod in Commercial Water Heaters. Some commercial water heaters use impressed-current rods rather than the sacrificial rods. Impressed-current rods require electricity because they do not create the self-generating currents that anode rods are capable of. Impressed-current rods do not need to be replaced; however, they should be cleaned periodically.

The location of the impressed-current rod will be listed in the instructions in plain view on the outside of the tank for most models. To clean them, simply wipe them off with a clean towel. If you discover rusting on the inside of water heater, call a plumber, the manufacturer, or install sacrificial anode rods.

*The above post is the opinion of the author. Please consult a licensed professional if you have not performed the above tasks in the past, or if you are not comfortable with the process. A water heating system can be dangerous, and extreme care should be taken when operating or maintaining one.